Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Peruvian Food

Peruvian food is determined by the geography of the country. There are several regions, each one with unique qualities. We only visited two regions, the Sierra (Andes or high lands) where the city of Cuzco and the mountains of Machu Picchu are located, and the Coast region where the capital Lima, is located.
The differences between these two regions are not only in the geographical or climate aspects. In the Andes region, they preserve the typical Peruvian food, even the decoration at the restaurants was related to the Inca civilization. While in the Coast region they sell fast food, from places like Burger King, Pizza Hut, and other nationals companies.



My favorite food was “Aji de Gallina” shredded chicken in a spiced milk sauce, served with rice and a hard boiled egg. This was delicioso, muy rico.



Also, the “Lomo Saltado” which was a stir-fried marinated steak, vegetables, french fries, and white rice. Yes, I know some of you may think that the combination of potatoes and rice in one dish is not to healthy for a diet. However, this it’s not the case, because you need the rice to soak up the juices and the french fries gives the meat a good flavor. This was extremely tasty.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

First Lima then Home

Wow, can’t believe this is our last day in Perú!! The week went by so fast. First, we had an early departure from Cusco for our flight back to Lima. In Lima, we had lunch, we went shopping for a while at the Indian Market, and then the beach.
Dinner was at the hotel, with an appetizer of Papa a la Huancaina and the main meal Chaufa rise. After this we were off to the airport for the last time. We said good-bye and went our separate ways.

Horseback riding & Geocaching

January 9th, I woke up stiff as a board. This morning was by far the most painful for my weak knees. But no time to worry about that, horse back riding was planed for this day. It was raining, but that didn’t stop us, as a matter of fact Karina wore shorts and I wore a bermuda. I know it wasn’t a good idea, but we were hoping that eventually the sun would come out.

Only 10 of us were going to horseback riding. Our guide for that day picked up us at the hotel and then we drove to Sacsayhuaman (Saqsaywaman). Once we got there we had to walk through a muddiest field. Finally we arrived and started looking for our horses; but for Karina and Rosa was the first time riding, so each one had a designated guy to help them. While I was waiting for my horse all I could think about it, was that ten years had passed since the last time I did horse back riding. I didn’t said anything and I just grad my horse and started riding. What you know, it’s true what they said “once you learn it, you never forget”. We went up the hill. Still raining but I was doing find with my horse. Actually my horse was old so we ridded very slow. We made it; we were at the “Temple of the Moon”, beautiful place with wonderful views and magnificent caves. We walked for a while, visit some caves and then went back to the ranch.

We drove back to our hotel, changed our clothes and left for lunch. We ate at a nice restaurant near of the Plaza de Armas. I dared to order Cuy or guinea pig. I ate half and Elisa ate the other half. It was roasted; the skin was hard I did not like it, but the little meat that was under the skin wasn’t too bad. But let’s just say it’s not something I would order for my self again. I didn’t like it, but at least I tried it.

After lunch we went to the local markets so we could buy more souvenirs, but we only had an hour and a half before the geocaching. It’s a shame we had so little time to spend in Cuzco, as it is a beautiful city with so much to do.

At the end we did our own geocaching.

January 8th, Machu Picchu & Thermal Baths

On January 8th, the alarm was set for 4:30 AM, neither Karina nor I got up before 5: 00 AM; we were heading back to Machu Picchu to see the sunrise but we had to be at the lobby, done with breakfast, no later than 5:10 AM. Only problem, we were already late and by the time Karina and I got downstairs, it was 5:20AM so breakfast was out of the question…or at least that what I thought. Luckily we had a few minutes; I packed up some fruit, grab a cup of juice and a piece of bread that I left behind because everybody was leaving and my hands were full.

We waited in line for the bus, and at 5:30 am we caught one of the first buses up to Machu Picchu. We arrived to the starting point, but there was no sun. The city was covered with fog and clouds. We still planned to hike for our sunrise.

At the end only Elisa and I climbed the mountain of Machu Picchu (altitude 9, 500ft above sea level). Due to the fog and quick showers that covered the mountain, our climbing was quiet and mysterious. I couldn’t believe my self; I was walking a 500 year old trail and had the perfect view of Wayna Picchu.

Although it was a cloudy morning and the fog was dense, when we arrived at the peak of the mountain the sun came out. The landscape was beautiful; it had a breath taking view of the other mountains. Sadly I only saw some orchids that were in full bloom and they were beautiful.

On the way down, we stopped for a brake and we had a quick snack. We continued and soon stopped for a breath taking view of a bright and colorful rainbow. I could have stayed there forever.

Finally, we got back down, we took some pictures of the llamas that were by the starting point and walked the city for the last time.

Check Elisa’s website, for more details, the Blooper video and the video to the top of the Mountain of Machu Picchu.

We took the bus down back. Again we another boy that raced the bus down the mountain. After the workout we had, the bus was just perfect. We saw our group and we decided to get off. We head to the restaurant, had lunch and then we were off to the “Baños Termales” (Thermal Baths). This natural baths were at different temperatures, the place had several pools and a small, but high decorated snack bar.

After that we headed to the train station, all hopped on to the train for our ride back to Ollantaytambo. At Ollantaytambo our bus was waiting for us. We drove back to the hotel in Cuzco and for dinner we had pizza.

It was a long day, but the experience was worth it.

Friday, January 25, 2008

Finally, the moment of truth: Machu Picchu

Continue January 7th, we checked into the park and we started our tour around the ruins. As soon as we entered the park my mind went blank. I had seen pictures before, but honestly pictures can’t do it justice.

As a quick note: make sure you use the restrooms before you start your tour inside the ruins, because there are no restrooms in the park. We only pay S/. 1.00 soles to use the restrooms.

As we walked, I saw llamas walking by, unbelievable stonework, agricultural terraces, gardens, etc. The mountain is an exceptional place to find peace, relax, explore nature, and learn the wonders of the Inca civilization. I was filled with joy, and while I was there I forgot about worries and the fact that I was a tourist. The only time I’ve seen something this remarkable was when I went to The Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe) in the northern coast of Spain.

We stopped a long the way to learn the history of the place. We heard about Hiram Brigham, the American historian, who discovered Machu Picchu, on July 24, 1911, the Temple of the Sun, the Tomb of the Princess or Royal Tomb, The Temple of the Condor, Three-Windows Temple, etc.

The entire city is the only one of its kind, but the areas that caught my attention were The Temple of the Sun, with its semicircular floor plan, rectangular faced stones and perfect joints. The semicircular wall had two windows; one faces towards the east and the other towards the north. This two windows form the observatory in Machu Picchu. The temple had a carved rock altar for the ceremonies they had honoring the Sun.

The Three- Windows Temple, around the Sacred Plaza, was a ceremonial center. The temple had large trapezoidal windows, and although our tourist guide said that this temple was the most captivating section of the city, I don’t share that idea, for me the most captivating section was the Principal Temple, that it’s located next to the Three- Windows Temple. Some may say it’s just a three- walled building that had not been restored and was falling. Exactly, because of those reasons this temple is extraordinary. Yes, the temple was falling, but thanks to the construction of fine stonework, it was still standing.

The Sacred Rock was as exited as the Principal Temple. All of us want to place our hand on it, for good energy and luck for the New Year. They said the Sacred Rock was shaped like the Inca’s sacred mountain of Yanantin, standing behind it. Although, for Edwin looks more like the shape of the Cuy (Guinea Pig).

After a few hours of breathtaking views, we made our way back to the bus. Before we drove back down to town we looked for the geocache outside the park. Unfortunately we were unsuccessful.

On the way down, a local boy raced the bus. When the bus came around the corner the boy would yell in Quechua, “Good by” and some other words that I could not make out. Sometimes he runs behind or beside the bus before he slips back into the mountain. He never lose track of the bus and in each corner he was head to head with the bus. Finally at the bottom he jumps in from of the bus again and the bus driver stops and let the boy on to collect tips.

We made our way back to the hotel. Dinner at the hotel was delicious; some of us had “Lomo Saltado” and “Sopa a la Criolla”, for dessert pancakes covert in chocolate. Everyone sang Happy Birthday to Frank (for the second time-actually was three times, because we did the Spanish version too), and he blew out the candle that the hotel manager give him with a chocolate cake. But every time we sang Happy Birthday to him, he got younger and younger, @_@.

I can’t imagine having a birthday like this one. Frank I don’t know if you agree with me on this one, but your birthday was amazing.

Like I said before, pictures do not do this historical place the justice it deserves. Pictures are one thing, but being there and seeing it in all its glory and beauty makes clear why was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Sven Wonders of the World.

The alarm for next day was set for 4:30am. We are planning to see the sunrise.

January 7th, Cuzco to Aguas Calientes

The day started off while it was still dark out. Although I should said that the day started off at midnight, when Karina, Rosa, and I, sang Happy Birthday to Frank (for the 1st time) We bought him a small cake and we chill at the lobby for a little while. I think our singing woke up some people (please forgive us if we did). Anyhow we had a quick breakfast at the hotel, but not before we brought down our luggage for this new adventure. Edwin then hustled us off to the train station.
Once we arrived at the train station, we saw that a lot of people were waiting for the train. Thanks to Edwin we didn’t have to wait, we had VIP tickets lol, therefore we didn’t wait on line and we just went strait to the train to look for our designated sits. Some of us changed sits (including me) I sat with Karina, Rosa, and Frank. The four of us were a little sleepy because of Frank’s celebration (nothing we regret ^. ^) Unluckily Rosita was ready to fall sleep at any minute. I said “unluckily” because neither of us were, in particular Karina. Apparently we decide-without really saying it, we were going to be awake for the three and a half hrs ride-. But not only Rosa was tired, after we were on board and off, most of the group was asleep, I guess all of us were worn-out at some point after our previous trek in Cuzco.

The train did some stops a long the way, to let off some hikers, that were doing the one-day trek to Machu Picchu. The trip was long, but we had great views through the windows.

There were short tunnels, a series of agricultural terraces, the Urubamba River, and the high green mountains that surrounded the lost city of the Inca Empire.

When we got off the train, it was raining, we took our luggage and we walked through the tourist market. While we were walking I noticed that the main street was the railroad tracks rather than a road. Apparently, the main reason tourist visit Aguas Calientes is that it is the place where they catch the bus to go to the ruins. It’s a small town, with few hotels, hostels, restaurants, discotecas (discos) and most of the vehicles were the buses to Machu Picchu Mountain.

Aguas Calientes Town Square

Our hostel, La Cabaña, was beautiful, nothing in comparison to the other two hotels we stayed before. Out of the three, this one was my favorite; regrettably we stayed only one night. The entire hostel was wonderful, Andean artifacts and magnificent relics decorated the lobby, dining room, balconies, and rooms.

We had lunch at a buffet near where we had to catch the bus to Machu Picchu. After lunch we headed down to the bus. The bus ride to the starting point of the ruins was an adventure in itself. The road was narrow, muddy (because of the rain, which by the way stopped while we were at lunch), it was a two-lane road but the driver knew exactly when to stop to let the other bus pass. At long last we arrived safely and were ready to begin our hike.

The moment we were waiting: Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Day 4, Chinchero, Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Pisac

After we had breakfast we were off for a day of excursions. We drove up the same way as we did the day before, but this time we drove past Sacsayhuman. We went to the town of Chinchero, to see a demonstration of how Andean people weave.

First they showed us how they clean the wool with their own Inca Shampoo, then how they do the natural dying techniques and finally from what plants they got the coloring. After that they showed us the way the weave. They told us that young girls learned to weave before they reach puberty, while women weave on heddle looms. At the end, the demonstrator blessed us for the New Year with confetti, just like the Incas did back in the pass.


When we were in Ollantaytambo, the locals were celebrating their “El Día de Reyes” (Three Kings Day), the Epiphany, echoing the day when the Three Wise Men following the star to Bethlehem. Although it was raining everybody was celebrating in the main square. Some of the locals wore costumes with big masks; others were dancing or playing some Andean instrument. It seen that they were heading to the church to culminated their celebration.

Next, we visited Ollantaytambo, a town known for its ruins, and the major site where the Incas defeated the Spaniards in battle. Ollantaytambo is located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. There is a set of terraces leading up the mountainside and from the summit there is an impressive view of the city. Ollantaytambo is enclosed with a defensive wall which separated the city from the ruins.

Later we had lunch. We drove to a nice restaurant that looked like a retreat place with beautiful flowers, gardens, alpacas, parrot and Andean music. The restaurant had a buffet with typical Peruvian food. The desserts were delicious, oh well at least for me, I love sweets, and they had a dessert that was made with rice pudding and I think (going to bet on this one- not quite sure) tropical berries. You would think that’s an odd combination, but if you’re into sweets you goanna love it.

After lunch, Edwin took us to the Pisac market close to the Sacred Valley, to do our shopping; because this market offered better quality and a bigger variety, than the one in Cuzco. I bought most of my souvenirs and hand crafts in this market. In this market if you really want to purchase something but you’re not too crazy about the price you could bargain, unless you want to pay the full price. Piece of advice; if you use and sharp your haggling skills you would get unbelievable bargains.

Afterward, we drove back to Cuzco. The Sacred Valley was unforgettable, unique, words can’t describe it completely. The Valley is mostly untouched and most of the locals conserve the lifestyle they had decades ago.

Dinner was at the restaurant in Plaza de Armas, I ate alpaca. The meat was a little tough for me, but the taste was good, it was cool to try it. When they served the alpaca, Karina and Giseth started playing with the finger puppets they bought at the Pisac market, it was hilarious our own puppet show at the dinner table. As for dessert we had a delicious ice cream.

Tomorrow is our big trip to Machu Picchu, I’m looking forward for my encounter with the new 7 Wonder of the World.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Cuzco Capital of the Inca Empire


Andes Mountains - view from plane

Arriving in Cusco, view of Andes from plane

On January 5, 2008, we flew to Cuzco. Our flight was at 5: 25 AM, after 1 hr and 15 min we landed in Cuzco- Velazco Astete Airport. When we were landing I saw the Andes Mountains from the plane. While we were waiting for our bags, a group of musicians in the airport greeted us with local music.

Edwin told us that we had to move very slowly and with extreme caution as our bodies were adjusting to the change in altitude. We drove to our hotel “De la Villa Hermoza Hotel” where we were advised to rest for a while, catch some sleep, and let our bodies to started acclimatizing to the high altitude of Cuzco (approximately elevation 3326m/10,912ft).

In the afternoon we had our Cuzco City Tour. We visited the Qoricancha or Koricancha; “The Temple of the Sun”. In top of Qoricancha, is the Santo Domingo Catholic Church. This temple was dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. We then went around the courtyard area where there were Incan stone walls that were along one side. Next we continued around and were shown excellent paintings displayed in the many side rooms off the cloister. Some paintings had unique Cuzco elements like, cuy (guinea pig) or conquistadors.


Church of La Compañia de Jesus


Korikancha Temple

The Front Part Of Capilla del Triunfo Cathedral Of Cusco Peru



The central courtyard in the Spanish convent

We also saw the Cathedral, which took almost a century to build. When we were in front of the Cathedral, there were two little girls that were playing. We took their picture and kept walking; but then they came after us demanded money for the picture that was taken.


Girls in from of the Cathedral


Saqsaywaman Women with her Llama on the ruins

We went to Sacsayhuaman (Saqsaywaman) fortress, which in Quechua means “Satisfied Falcon”, from this fortress it was possible to overlook all of Cuzco, which was designed into the shape of a lying down puma; the animal that symbolized the Inca dynasty. The structure is built with limestone blocks and even after the devastating earthquakes in Cuzco most of the fortress was left undamaged.


Sacsayhuaman


Photo From Sacsayhuamán Ruins, Cristo con Los Brazos Extendidos

After our long tour it was time to go back to the Hotel to get ready for dinner. We went to a nice restaurant. It was warm and we had quinoa soup and spaghetti. Then of course, I had “coca tea.” While we ate a Peruvian group played Andean music.


Feeling refreshed, we walked back to the hotel, but we stopped once in a while to admire the city of Cuzco at night.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Getting to know Lima

After a short night and our second day in Lima, I was looking forward for our tour in Lima, or how the Spanish conqueror (conquistador) Francisco Pizarro called “Ciudad de los Reyes” (City of Kings). Sadly the city was shrouded in a mist and it felt like it would begin to rain, but this didn’t stop us, and we started our tour around the city. My first impressions of Lima were that it is an excited, noisy, large and polluted city.

The first place we visited was the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología e Historia del Perú (National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History of Perú), in the Plaza Bolivar. This museum had an outstanding collection of pottery and textiles from all the main cultures of ancient Perú. Is an enjoyable museum that covers Peruvian civilization from prehistoric times to the colonial and republican periods. All cultures in the Peruvian civilization are exhibited in a chronological and didactic way. Artifacts from pre-Inca Perú include stone tools carved some 8,000 years ago. The collection of pottery is exquisite, with good descriptions of the stylistic characteristics of each, but not all the exhibits are labeled in English, so you might want to hire a guide.


Next, we visited San Francisco Monastery, one of the most remarkable of Spanish colonial buildings, notable for its baroque architecture. It counts with an extensive old library with a collection of thousands of historical antique books. The Monastery it’s extraordinary, very peaceful, which in my opinion it’s due to the harmonious architectural style, which it’s intricately geometric.

Just down the San Francisco Monastery we saw the Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas) was called the “heart” of the city, the plaza its standing in the middle of a spacious square, with a magnificent bronze fountain that stands out. On the north side of The Plaza Mayor is the Government Palace, also known as the Presidential Palace, and the oldest building in The Plaza de Armas is the Cathedral, Lima’s Cathedral is immense, but it’s not that stunning. I think that the interior of San Francisco Monastery is much more extraordinary. What was interested in this Cathedral was that we saw the tomb of Francisco Pizarro, the great conquistador who conquered the Inca Empire for the King of Castilla.
After our tour we had lunch in a typical “Polleria” (Pollo a la Brasa) that was located in the mall near our hotel. Polleria its Peruvian wood rotisserie chicken. The Rotisserie Chicken was served with french fries and salad. I also tried the “Chicha Morada” made from purple corm and my first “Pisco Sour.” Pisco is a regional brandy made of Muscat grapes and is a traditional drink of Peru.

In Our way to Lima, Perú

On January 3, 2008, we flew to Lima. On the plane, I sat with Rebecca and Karina, Since we departed, I notice all of us were very anxious, perhaps of the long fly or perhaps because we wanted to see Perú badly. None of us three slept during the fly. Karina was constantly looking out the window which made Rebecca and I look too, nothing but water to see by the way.

Karina became my roomate after Dr. Searson designated partners in the middle of the fly and we stuck together for the whole adventure.

Once we got to Lima, we met Edwin our turist guide a cool, polite and very friendly native Peruvian. We took the bus, which was waiting for our arrival and then we headed to the hotel "Embajadore" where after such a long trip we fell asleep.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Previous Departure

In January 2008, I am planning to visit Peru for the first time; one of my goals is to see Machu Picchu.
Prior to the trip, I was anxious about whether I had spent enough time preparing my bags and everything. I read everything I could about Perú, spent weeks planning, and gathering supplies. Perú is located in western South America and it shares borders with Chile, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia and Ecuador and the South Pacific Ocean.
One of my best friends is from Perú; she actually went back four moths ago. She lives in Lima, maybe I get the chance to say hi while I there.
For what I read, the culture of Perú is by far one of the most diverse in South America. It came to my attention, because I am from Colombia so you would think that I knew this already. On my defense, I only studied art history of the Inca Empire. Therefore, I am looking forward to the trip and all the new information and activities that I would had.